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Raising a Happy Healthy Cat
Animal Care - Raising a Loving Animal

You Have Chosen a Cat! What Will You Need?

SUPPLIES

Before you bring your cat home, you will need a few things made ready for its arrival.
•    A food bowl – this needs to be washed regularly
•    Water bowl – water should be changed daily
•    Litter tray – This is discussed below
•    A cat carrier for your cat to travel in – a box or large bird cage will do
•    If you plan to let your cat outside, it will still need to be confined during the first few days, so a litter tray will still be needed
•    A longhaired cat will require a brush or comb
•    Worming and flea treatments can be bought as needed
•    If you plan to walk your cat on a harness and leash - buy one early on as the sooner it is introduced the better your cat will accept it
•    If you want your cat to have its own bed, it is best to get one straight away, as cats are creatures of habit. However, bear in mind that although you may buy your cat the best bed on the market - a cat will always prefer to sleep where it feels most comfortable and safe. This location may change according to the time of day, temperature and the household routine. Do not expect your cat to sleep only in its bed.
FOOD / EATING
Of course, you will also need some food for your cat to eat - but first find out what food it is used to and try to match this as closely as possible. Cats can be very picky even about the temperature of their food. Try a few things and see what works.
•    Fish and rice seem to always be appreciated by the cats I have raised in Bangladesh.  I often take the fish guts from the daily meals and cook them without oil then mix them together with left over rice.
•    My cats eat the bones and the heads of the fish and for a treat I will give them a whole small fish from the market and it will be gone in a second ☺
•    Meat should be cooked first then mixed with rice
•    Cats cannot eat onions – it is not good for them
•    Myth – cats should have milk. Cats are actually lactose intolerant and although they love milk they should not have very much for it may cause diarrhea.
Kittens eat more often than adult cats.  Wild cats will often be very nervous if their bowl is empty – it is best to keep some food available.
THE LITTER BOX
Place a very small litter box or small cardboard box with a small entry way cut in the box; fill it with a small amount of non-clumping cat litter / sand / dirt / newsprint and a previously used newsprint, cotton ball or tissue that the kitten eliminated on. It’s that easy, kitten will start using the litter box in a very short time (there is more on this topic below if you are having issues).

In Bangladesh I used a washing tub and cut a U in the side to act as a litter and lined it with shredded newspaper.

Special Note: Never use clumping cat litter, a kitten could ingest it and suffer severe health problems, even death. If non-clumping cat litter is not available, use shredded newspaper without colored advertising section.  
Caring For Your Cat
THE FIRST FEW DAYS
The first thing you should do when you bring your cat home is to put its cat carrier in a safe, quiet place and leave it alone for about half an hour. This should preferably be in the area of the house you are planning to keep your cat in for the first few days. Choose an area away from activity and other animals. If your carrier is of the open-top variety, place a towel over the top and one side to make your cat feel safer. You do not have to leave the room at this stage, but should sit quietly and watch your cat from a comfortable distance. Do not stare at your cat as they may find this threatening. Your cat will sniff the air and begin to relax as it becomes accustomed to its surroundings. After half-an hour, open the carrier and retreat, allowing the cat to explore at its own pace and in its own time.
If you cannot set a room aside for your cat, the bathroom will do. Do not be surprised if your cat wants to hide for much of the first day or two - new surroundings are stressful and the more a cat is pressured, the more likely it will feel stressed.
Do not do anything in the first few days to add to your cats stress. Leave worming, etc until your cat has settled in - unless an emergency crops up. When you first leave the room, wait at least half-an hour before returning. This will give your cat time to explore the room alone.
If you bring a cat treat or toy when you return, this will serve to associate good things with your presence. For the first few days, do not pick your cat up unless it comes to you. A cat can feel threatened by being restrained, but still needs to become used to being held, so handle your cat as often as it will let you.
When your cat seems comfortable with its room or large cage, and with you and anyone else who will be caring for it, it is time to allow it to explore the rest of the house. This is best done one room at a time. Small children and other animals should be kept away from the cat or confined until the cat is comfortable with its surroundings.
If your cat is to live outside, it will be more difficult to monitor its exploration and to keep it safe. To ensure your cat returns, wait until you are sure that your cat trusts you before letting it out and feed your cat at the same time each day. I recommend confining your cat at night, especially in areas where your cat and/or wildlife is at risk. To do this, it is best to ensure that your cat returns by feeding them in the late afternoon, just before locking them up for the night.
GETTING TO KNOW YOUR CAT.
As you and your cat get to know each other, you will become aware of each others likes, dislikes, personality and daily routine. Your cat will have its moods, much like your own, and will slowly fill a gap in your life you may not have known was even there.
Your Pet’s General Good Health
A healthy pet is a happy companion. Your pet’s daily well-being requires regular care and close attention to any hint of ill health. The

American Veterinary Medical Association suggests that you consult your veterinarian if your pet shows any of the following signs:

•    Lumps or swelling
•    Reduced or excessive appetite or water intake
•    Marked weight loss or gain
•    Limping, stiffness, or difficulty getting up or down
•    Difficult, discolored, excessive or uncontrolled waste elimination (urine and feces)
•    Abnormal discharges from any body opening
•    Head shaking, scratching, licking, or coat irregularities
•    Changes in behavior or fatigue
•    Foul breath or excessive tartar deposits on teeth

Pets age more rapidly than people and can develop disease conditions that can go unnoticed, even to the most attentive pet owner.

COMMON PROBLEMS & SUGGESTIONS:
LOOSE STOOLS OR DIARRHEA
Remember the kitten has survived a very stressful situation and may develop diarrhea. Decrease the amount of formula fed to each kitten by 25% and add one-teaspoon “plain” yogurt to the formula. As stated above, if the kitten has started on wet kitten food and develops loose bowels or diarrhea, decrease the amount of wet food added to formula until the kitten’s system can tolerate the rich kitten food.   If the rectum area appears red and irritated, you may apply a small amount of Vaseline on the area to assist with discomfort. Consult your veterinarian if diarrhea is severe or present for longer than 24 hours. In a healthy kitten, stress, overeating or parasites are the main reason diarrhea will occur.  

STRESS LEVEL
A manual alarm clock could also be helpful to help reduce the stress level. The ticking of the clock mimics the mother’s heartbeat. You’re trying to make the kitten as calm as possible.  She’s experienced a tremendous amount of stress and you helping to keep her calm will improve her overall health.
 
FLEAS
Severe infestation of fleas can make a kitten anemic and even kill very young kittens & adult cats. Kittens fewer than six weeks of age should not be bathed with flea shampoo or be treated with Revolution, Advantage, etc. Absolutely no over the counter products, including shampoos are to be used.  Instead, kittens fewer than six weeks of age should be bathed with warm water (exercise caution-water should not enter kittens mouth or nose), combing the fur with a fine tooth comb and drowning the fleas in alcohol or soapy water.

This procedure should be repeated several times until the fleas or majority of fleas are no longer present. Following the bath, towel dry kitten; or if less than 7 days old, a hairdryer on low setting may be used to speed up the length of the drying time and the kitten should be placed on a clean, dry towel with a heating pad placed on low under the towel. If necessary, repeat this procedure until all signs of fleas have disappeared.  

Flea powder and shampoo is readily available in Bangladesh.
EAR MITES
Check ears for mites. Kitten’s ear canals are closed at birth and canals do not open until kittens are 5 to 12 days old, which is about the same time their eyes open.  Mites are usually present if very crusty dark colored wax with a coffee ground consistency is found in the ears. Ear mites are not contagious to adults or children. Clean the ears with tissue and water and put 3% eye/ear drops in each ear 2-3 times a day.

EYE PROBLEMS
The kitten’s eye or eyes might become closed from an eye infection and the lid may be closed. Moisten a cotton ball or tissue with warm water and gently cleanse the eye area.  Do this several times per day and if it persists buy 1% eye drops from the pharmacy.

ABSCESS
Abscesses are very dangerous and can get out of hand quickly. If your cat has been bitten by another animal or been injured in some way which has broken skin take special care.  If you notice swelling or a lump forming around the wound you should take a warm wet cloth and hold it to the wound then after a few minutes gently squeeze the area to remove the puss.  Continue this until the swelling goes down.  If it does not – keep the area clean and get some amoxicillin from the pharmacy.  Give your cat 1/8 of a pill once a day – if the infection persists or you think your cat may need stitches take it to the vet.

If your cat is continuously licking the wound you may need to make a cone to prevent the infection from getting out of hand.  Take cardboard and make a cone shape by wrapping a blunted triangle around so the opening fits your cats head.  Then staple and/or tape it on until the wound heals.

WHY INOCULATE YOUR CAT?
Vaccines protect your cat from specific viral and bacterial infections. They are not a treatment. If your companion cat gets sick because he is not properly vaccinated, the vaccinations should be given after your pet recovers.

Kittens should be taken to the veterinarian between the ages of 5 to 6 weeks to be inoculated against disease. Kittens that did not receive Colostrum (first milk received from their mothers which is rich in antibodies to help fight disease) will need their inoculations earlier than kittens raised by their mothers.  

WHY SPADE OR NEUTER YOUR CAT?
Every year, millions of unwanted cats and kittens, are needlessly destroyed. The good news is that every pet owner can make a difference. By having your cat surgically sterilized, you will do your part to prevent the birth of unwanted kittens and you will enhance your pet’s health and quality of life.

Both operations lead to improved long-term health, prevent unwanted litters and eliminate many behavior problems associated with the mating instinct.
Benefits To Your Fem Contrary to what some people believe, getting pregnant — even once — does not improve the behavior of female dogs and cats. In fact, the mating instinct may lead to undesirable behaviors and result in undue stress on both the owner and the animal.  Also, while some pet owners may have good intentions, few are prepared for the work involved in monitoring their pet’s pregnancy, caring for newborns and locating good homes for all the offspring.

•    A single female cat and her offspring cannot really produce 420,000 cats over just seven years.
•    Dr. Griffin's Favorite Quote: If one unspayed female cat produces two litters per year, and two kittens per litter survive to reproduce, and none of these cats are ever spayed or neutered, the total population multiplies in five years, or ten generations, to 59,049.
Pet Behavior And Pet Reproduction
Benefits To Your Female Pet
Female cats can come into heat every two weeks during breeding season until they become pregnant.  During this time they may engage in behaviors such as frequent yowling and urination in unacceptable places.
Female cats benefit from spaying which eliminates their heat cycles and generally reduces the negative behaviors that may lead to owner frustration and, ultimately, a decision to relinquish the pet to a shelter. Most importantly, early spaying of female cats helps protect them from serious health problems later in life such as uterine infections and breast cancer.

Benefits To Your Male Pet
At maturity (on average 6-9 months of age), male cats are capable of breeding. Both male dogs and cats are likely to begin “marking” their territories by spraying strong-smelling urine on your furniture, curtains, and in virtually any part of the house. Also, given the slightest chance, males may attempt to escape from home in search of a mate.

Neutering male cats reduces the need to breed and can have a calming effect that makes them less inclined to roam and more content to stay at home.  Neutering your male pet also improves his health by reducing the risk of prostate disease, testicular cancer and infections.

What Is Surgical Altering?
During surgical altering, a veterinarian removes certain reproductive organs. If your cat is a female, the veterinarian will usually remove her ovaries, fallopian tubes and uterus. The medical name for this operation is an ovariohysterectomy, although it is commonly called “spaying.” If your pet is a male, the testicles are removed and the operation is called an orchiectomy, commonly referred to as castration or simply “neutering.”


General anesthesia will be administered before the surgery making the procedure non-painful. You will be asked to keep your pet calm and quiet for a few days afterwards until the incision begins to heal.

What Is The Best Age To Spay Or Neuter My Pet?
A cat can be surgically altered at almost any age. Your veterinarian can advise you on the most appropriate time for your particular pet based upon its breed, age and physical condition.

Recovery after Surgery
Females need a couple of days to recover. Males can be released after a night. Normal behaviors during recovery include deep sleep, head bobbing, wobbly movements, fast breathing, and shivering. Abnormal behaviors during recovery include continued bleeding from the surgery area, vomiting, difficulty breathing, not waking up, and grogginess 48 hours after surgery. If a cat displays any of these signs, call the veterinarian immediately.
Will The Surgery Affect My Pet’s Disposition Or Metabolism?
The procedure has no effect on a pet’s intelligence or ability to learn, play, work or hunt.  Most pets tend to be better behaved following the operation, making them more desirable companions.

Where can I find a Veterinarian who works with cats in Bangladesh?
In Goshen 2 across from the Westin Hotel there are two vets in the horseshoe market.  They are both located on the second floor on the left hand corner – you must pass the men’s washroom and a small gallery to find them.  They have pet kibble (westernized pet biscuits), leashes, flea medicines; vaccines and can perform spayed and neutering.  

I used this vet – he seemed conscientious: 01912013615. They also make house calls.
Socializing Feral Kittens
Kittens who are not exposed to humans early in their lives learn from their mothers and quickly become feral or wild street cats.  However, if they are caught and handled at a young enough age, feral kittens can be socialized and placed in loving homes.
 
Remember that spay/neuter is the single most important thing you can do to help feral cats.  It is best to alter as many cats in a colony as possible before you begin socializing.  
 
Kittens under four weeks old can usually be socialized in a matter of days, and kittens up to eight weeks old can take approximately two to four weeks to socialize. 10-12 weeks old kittens can also be tamed, but it may take longer.  Taming feral kittens over 12 weeks old can be difficult and they may never be fully socialized to people.
 
GETTING STARTED
•    Kittens cannot be socialized while they are still in their colony.  They must be brought inside and confined so you have regular access to them.  If you cannot do this, have the kittens altered and return them to their colony.  
•    Kittens can be taken from their feral mothers when they begin weaning-at approximately four weeks of age.
HOUSING THE KITTENS
•    You will need to confine the kitten(s) at first, preferably in a dog crate, large pet carrier, cat condo, or cage. If you do not have a cage or carrier, you can keep the kittens in a small room.  Be sure to block up anything they could crawl into or under and remove anything that could injure them.  
•    Do not let feral kittens run loose in your house.  They can hide in tiny spaces and are exceptionally difficult to find and coax out.  In addition, a large room can be frightening and hinder the taming process.  
•    If possible, kittens should be separated from each other to facilitate taming. Left together, one kitten can become outgoing and playful while another remains shy and withdrawn. If you cannot separate them, the kittens can be housed together, but be sure to spend time alone with each one.
•    The cage should contain a small litterbox, food and water dishes, and something to cuddle in like a towel or piece of your clothing.

SOCIALIZING
•    Food is the key to taming.  Make dry kitten food available at all times and give the kitten a small amount of wet food at least twice a day.  The kitten may hesitate to eat in your presence at first, but be patient.  Eventually the kitten will associate your presence with food.
•    Chicken-flavored baby food is a special treat that almost no kitten can resist.  
•    How soon you begin handling the kitten depends on the kitten's age and temperament.  Older kittens and those who are more feral are harder to handle.  With these kittens, start by offering baby food or wet food on a spoon through the cage.  Once they are used to this, you can begin handling them.
•    Younger and less feral kittens can be picked up right away.  Wear gloves if you will feel more comfortable, as it is important to be confident and gentle when picking up any animal.  Wrap the kitten in a towel allowing her head to stick out.  
•    Offer baby food or wet food on a spoon.  If she does not respond, dab a tiny bit on the end of her nose.   Once she tastes it, she will soon want more.
•    When petting a feral kitten, approach from behind his head. Gradually begin to pet the kitten's face, chin, and behind the ears while talking gently.  Try to have several feeding/petting sessions (15-20 minutes) with each kitten as many times a day as you can.  
•    Progress will depend on the kitten's age and temperament.  Each day you will notice improvement falling asleep in your lap, coming towards you for food, meowing at you, purring, and playing are all great signs.  Once the kitten no longer runs away from you but instead comes toward you seeking to be fed, held and pet, you can confine her to a small, kitten-proofed room rather than a cage.  Siblings can also be reunited at this point.
•    Expose the kittens to a variety of people.  Everyone should use low voices at first, and approach the kittens in a non-threatening manner.  

LITTER TRAINING

Place a very small litter box or small cardboard box with a small entry way cut in the box; fill it with a small amount of non-clumping cat litter / sand / dirt / newsprint and a previously used newsprint, cotton ball or tissue that the kitten eliminated on. It’s that easy, kitten will start using the litter box in a very short time (there is more on this topic below if you are having issues).

In Bangladesh I used a washing tub and cut a U in the side to act as a litter and lined it with shredded newspaper.

Special Note: Never use clumping cat litter, a kitten could ingest it and suffer severe health problems, even death. If non-clumping cat litter is not available, use shredded newspaper without colored advertising section.  

Kittens are litter trained between the ages of 3 to 4 weeks.

TRAINING YOUR KITTEN TO GO TO THE WASHROOM OUTSIDE
If you catch your kitten going to the washroom inside immediately pick it up and take it outside.  The kitten should stop going to the washroom when you pick it up. If you see bathroom like behaviors – gently move the kitten outside. After a number of times the kitten should start going outside.

KEEPING YOUR KITTEN CLEAN & DRY
 
1.    Kitten should be given clean, dry and fresh bedding every day. It may be necessary to change the bedding several times a day if kitten has any accidents.
2.    Kittens may be lightly washed with warm water and towel dried or a moistened warm washcloth may be used to wash faces, necks and paws after eating. “Do not use soap”.  If the kitten’s rectum area and surrounding fur is soiled from loose stools or diarrhea, wash the rectum area under warm running water.
3.    All bedding should be washed with detergent, bleach and a little fabric conditioner.   
4.    Wash your hands before & after each feeding and after changing the kitten’s bedding.
5.    If kitten is housed in an animal carrier-Disinfect carrier by using 1 part bleach to 32 parts water (1 oz. to 1 gallon water), thoroughly dry and air before returning kitten to carrier.  
6.    If kitten is housed in a cardboard box-Change cardboard box several times per week and when cardboard box is soiled.  
 
ISOLATE FOR A SENSE OF SAFETY
Keep your orphan kitten separate from your household pets until a veterinarian has checked the kitten. If you have decided to keep your orphan kitten, your vet will advise on the length of isolation and the introduction process. If your intention is not to keep the kitten, interaction with your household pet(s) is not recommended.  
 
LOVE
Your orphan kitten needs lots of your love. Orphaned at birth or shortly following birth, your kitten experienced a tremendous loss. It’s your job as the substitute (foster) mom to help the kitten over this stressful period. At approximately 3 to 4 weeks of age, your kitten will start exploring and playing. At this point you can introduce toys to your kitten. Of course, she’ll need someone to help her with playtime and that someone will be you. Allow yourself plenty of time to play with your kitten. At the age of 6 to 7 weeks the kittens may start playing very rough. If the kitten is playing too rough with you, hold the kitten on its side with both hands until the kitten realizes that rough play is “not acceptable”.  The kitten’s mom would have disciplined the kitten but now it is your responsibility. Kittens are small & fragile, always be gentle with your touch.  
 
IMPORTANT TIPS
•    Handle feral kittens cautiously-nails and teeth are sharp.
•    Do not give kittens cow's milk-it can make them sick.   
•    Once the kitten is willing to play, offer toys and use a string (not yarn) or a cat dancer for him to chase.  Do not let the kitten bite, scratch or play with your hand.
•    If the kittens are staying awake at night, try to play and socialize with them more during the day and cover their cage(s) at night with a towel or blanket.
•    Leave a television or radio on (not too loud) during the day so the kittens get used to human voices.   
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: There's a pregnant feral cat outside. What should I do?
A: You have two options to choose from:
1.    Trap the queen and bring her indoors to have the kittens. The kittens are more likely to survive if born indoors although the mother may experience stress from being confined and become less able to care for her kittens. To reduce her stress, provide a warm, secluded, quiet area for her to give birth and nurse her litter.
2.    Provide a warm, outdoor cat shelter and the queen may choose to have her kittens in it. There is no guarantee.

•    Don't trap a mother who is nursing her kittens unless you can catch the kittens, too. Tiny kittens cannot survive away from their mothers for long.
•    If the kittens are newly weaned (usually four to six weeks).
•    Even though eating solid food, very young kittens are unlikely to survive without their mother for body heat and protection.
•    Try to trap the kittens no later than eight to ten weeks of age. The sooner they have human contact, the easier it will be to socialize them.
Q: I just found a newborn kitten and the mother is nowhere to be seen. What  
     should I do?
Do not be too hasty to move a kitten. The mother may be in the process of moving her litter to a safer area. Watch closely for several hours, but no more than a day, to see if the mother returns. If not, and the mother has abandoned one or more very young (neonatal) kittens, their only chance to survive is bottle-feeding. This is an intensive process not unlike caring for newborn human babies. There's a lot to learn, but once you know it, the process will become second nature.
 

Adopt an Animal!

Around the world there are hundreds of breeds of companion animals.  Look no further than your community!  Adopt a kitten or puppy!  While Bangladeshi stray animals are not what you may see on the movie screen - they are cute and have the potential to be lifelong friends!  Look at our section on animal care about adopting a feral animal and the care you should take.

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